Article of jewelry and method of manufacture thereof



p 8, 1964 H. J. FEIBELMAN 3,147,587

ARTICLE OF JEWELRY AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE THEREOF Filed Sept. 19, 1960 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTQR. 4%2'775 .zjzzezmam g wr WM Sept. 8, 1964 H. J. FEIBELMAN 3,147,537

7 ARTICLE OF JEWELRY AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE THEREOF Filed Sept. 19. 1960 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 p 8, 1964 H. J. FEIBELMAN 3,147,587

ARTICLE OF JEWELRY AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE THEREOF Filed Sept. 19, 1960 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 United States Patent 3,147,587 ARTICLE OF JEWELRY AND METHOD 0F MANUFACTURE THEREOF Hans J. Feibelman, Cranston, R.I., assignor to Coro, Inc.

of Rhode Island, Providence, R.I., a corporation of Rhode Island Filed Sept. 19, 1960, Ser. No. 56,804 4 Claims. (Cl. 59-80) The present invention relates to an article of jewelry and to the method of manufacture thereof. More particularly, the present invention relates to an article of jewelry that is utilized primarily as a bracelet or necklace and that includes a basic chain element to which a decorative detail or member is joined by a unique manufacturing process.

Heretofore, in the manufacture of small jewelry articles, such as an earring or the like, the technique usually employed was to centrifugally cast the article in its entirety. In the manufacture of articles such as necklaces and bracelets the component parts of the necklace and bracelet which have been preformed by centrifugal casting or any other manufacturing process are normally interconnected in pivotal relation or in some manner that enables the necklace or bracelet to encircle the neck or arm of the wearer. Because the bracelet elements could not be cast in pivotal engagement, the centrifugal casting process known heretofore could not be utilized to form a necklace or bracelet in its entirety.

In carrying out the present invention, the centrifugal casting process is employed to cast a design element as an integral part of a finished chain link, the completed necklace or bracelet thereby being formed by the casting process. In producing this unusual type of jewehy article, the present invention includes a strand of box links that are interconnected in end-to-end relation by connecting elements. The box links are initially deformed so that the sides thereof are struck inwardly to form a complete passage or opening therethrough, the opening being sealed from the remaining interior portions of the box links by the inwardly struck portions. The strand of deformed box links is then placed in a die that is formed with a plurality of spaced grooves that are adapted to receive the box links therein. Also formed in the die and communicating with the grooves that receive the box links are grooves that have been designed with a desired ornamental detail. When the box links are placed in their respective grooves, the openings formed therein communicate with the design grooves in the die so that when a casting material is introduced into the die, it will flow into the grooves that form the ornamental detail and then through the openings in the box links to the other side thereof. The ornamental detail is so formed and shaped as to be integral with the box link construction; however, since the openings through the box links have been sealed by the inwardly struck portions thereof, the casting material is prevented from gaining access to the interior portions of the box links and freezing the connecting elements thereof. The box links thus not only retain'their flexible characteristics but an ornamental detail is formed as in integral part of each of the box links and cooperates therewith to define an interesting and ornamental bracelet or necklace assembly.

Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to teach a method of manufacturing a jewelry article wherein an assembled flexible strand of link elements are deformed in such a manner as to receive casting material therein for forming an ornamental assembly without impairing the flexible characteristics of the strand.

Another object of the present invention is to provide an article of jewelry of the encircling variety which includes a plurality of interconnected links to which are integrally "ice joined ornamental elements that have been cast thereon.

Still another object is to teach a method of manufacturing an encircling element wherein a plurality of link members are deformed along the sides thereof to form an opening therethrough for receiving a casting material therein.

Still another object is to teach a method of manufacturing an encircling element that includes pivotal interconnecting members wherein a casting material is cast onto a preformed encircling member, the casting material being prevented from engaging the interconnecting members of the encircling element thereby assuring the flexible and encircling characteristics of the encircling element.

Still another object is to provide a necklace or bracelet that includes a strand of box links that are formed with openings therein for receiving a casting material therein, the openings in each box link being sealed from the adjacent interior portions thereof.

Still another object is to teach a method of deforming the side walls of a box link wherein said side walls are struck inwardly to form a passage therethrough, the inwardly struck portions forming a seal for sealing the adjacent interior portions of the box links.

Other objects, features and advantages of the invention will become apparent as the description thereof proceeds when considered in connection with the accompanying illustra-tive drawings.

In the drawings which illustrate the best mode presently contemplated by me for carrying out my invention:

FIG. 1 is a plan view of the necklace assembly that is formed by the method embodied in the present invention, a portion of the link structure having been removed for convenience;

FIG. 2 is a fragmentary top plan view of the die embodied herein that is utilized to form. the necklace assembly illustrated in FIG. 1;

FIG. 3 is a sectional view taken along lines 33 in FIG. 2;

FIG. 4 is a bottom plan view of the top die section showing the preformed grooves that are adapted to receive the casting material in the manufacture of the necklace and bracelet assemblies embodied herein;

FIG. 5 is a top plan view of the bottom die section that is formed with grooves similar to those in the top die section and that cooperate therewith to produce the finished jewelry article by the centrifugal casting process;

FIG. 6 is a perspective view of a. portion of the preformed link assembly showing the construction of the box links, parts being shown in section to illustrate one of the connecting elements that pivotally joins the box links;

FIG. 7 is a perspective view similar to FIG. 6 showing the manner in which the sides of the box links are deformed prior to inserting the link assembly in the die;

FIG. 8 is a perspective view of the box links illustrated in FIG. 7, parts being shown in section to illustrate the manner in which the side portions of the box links are struck inwardly to form the sealed opening therein;

FIG. 9 is a perspective view of one of the connecting members that pivotally interconnects the box links together; and

FIG. 10 is a perspective view of a portion of the finished bracelet or necklace construction, illustrating the ornamental detail that has been integrally cast onto one of the box links.

Referring now to the drawings and particularly to FIG. 1, a necklaee construction generally indicated at 10 is illustrated therein and is representative of the type of jewelry article that is produced by the method of manufacture embodied herein. As shown in FIG. 1, the necklace It includes a strand of interconnected link members generally indicated at 12 that form the basic element of the necklace construction. As will hereinafter be described, each of the link members in the strand assembly s ares? 12 has joined thereto in integral relation therewith an ornamental detail that is cast onto the link member with which it is joined. The necklace It) is completed by a hook 14 that is joined to a ring 15 at one end of the strand assembly 12, while a teardrop member 16 may be secured to a link chain 18 that is secured to the other end of the strand assembly 12. It is understood that a bracelet construction will be formed similarly to the necklace 1t) and differs therefrom primarily in length. As will be described hereinafter, the die illustrated in FIGS. 2, 4 and is adapted to form a bracelet simultaneously with the formation of the necklace It). In describing the method of forming the complete necklace assembly 10, reference is now made to FIGS. 6 through 9. Referring to FIG. 6 in particular, a portion of the flexible strand 12 is illustrated and as shown comprises a plurality of hollow box links each of which is illustrated at 20. The box links 20 are folded from blank form so that connecting elements 22 (FIG. 9) are secured in openings in the end walls thereof, thereby providing for securement of the box links in end-to-end relation. As shown in FIG. 9, each of the connecting elements 22 is formed in an H configuration that includes pairs of opposed tabs 24 that are adapted to be positioned behind the end walls of the box links. The tabs 24 thus provide for flexibility of movement of the connecting elements with respect to the box links and further prevent withdrawal of the connecting elements from engagement with the end walls of the box links. For the method of manufacture and the details of the links 20, reference is made to the patent to Hess, Patent No. 2,870,598.

The strand assembly 12 represented by the interconnected links 20 is utilized as the basic component of the necklace or bracelet embodied in the present invention. Since the links 20 must be retained in'their assembled position so that they have relative movement for use in encircling the arm or neck of the wearer, it is essential that the connecting elements 22 be free for movement within their respective box links. The invention herein contemplates casting a design integrally with the box links 20. However, because of the hollow nature of the box links 20, unless some provision is made for preventing the casting material from flowing inwardly thereof, the connecting elements 22 will be subjected to the casting material, and as a result will be integrally joined or frozen to its box link. In this event, free pivotal movement of the box links 20 with respect to each other will not be possible. In order to prevent the casting material from contacting the connecting element 22, an opening is formed in the side walls of the box link, the opening being formed by deforming the side walls so that they are struck inwardly. Referring -to FIGS. 7 and 8, this step in the method of manufacture of the necklace embodied herein is illustrated, and as shown, a pair of oppositely positioned shearing tools indicated at 26 are provided and are adapted to be brought into engaging relation with the side walls of each of the box links 20. The shearing tools 26 are formed with cutting edges 28 that are substantially concave in configuration so that as the shearing tool punctures the side wall of the box link 20, the portion of the side wall engaged by the shearing tool will be deformed or struck inwardly as illustrated in FIG. 8. Due to the concave configuration 28 of the shearing tools and since the shearing tools 26 are located in opposed relation, the oppositely struck portions of the side walls will be deformed inwardly and will be located in engaging relation with respect to the innermost ends thereof. Not only is the opening indicated at 30 formed in the box link 20, but the portions of the side walls of the opening 30 indicated at 29 and 31 that are formed by the inwardly struck portions of the side walls of the box link define a seal that seals the adjacent interior portions of the box link. It is seen that any material entering into the opening 34) will be prevented from gaining access to the interior of the box link by the portions 29 and 31, and consequently the connecting elements 22 will retain their freedom of movement despite the fact that a casting material has been introduced into the opening 3% Referring now to FIGS. 2, 3, 4, and 5, the die embodied herein for casting the finished article of jewelry is illustrated. The die is of conventional construction and includes complementary upper and lower die members generally indicated at 32 and 34, the upper die members 32 being illustrated in FIG. 4 and the lower die member 34 being illustrated in FIG. 5. The die members 32 and 34 are formed of a non-rigid material such as rubber as is well known in the art and are adapted to be placed in a rotating member and as such constitute part of a centrifugal casting unit. As is conventional in this type of die structure, the upper die member 32 is formed with an opening 36 into which the casting material is adapted to be poured. Communicating with the opening 36 are radial runners 33, 40 and. 42 which in turn communicate with a main semicircular runner 44 that is adapted to distribute the casting material to runners 46. The runners 46 communicate with grooves 48 that are preformed in the die member 32 and define the design that is adapted to be cast and joined to the links 20.

Both the dies 32 and 34 as illustrated are adapted to cast the necklace 10 and a bracelet simultaneously, and since the necklace is the larger of the two units, the design therefor is laid out in semicircular form. The shorter bracelet unit is laid out in straightline form, and grooves indicated at 50 are cut into the die 32 therefor and communicate with runners 52 that in turn communicate with a main runner 54 which has access to the opening 36.

In laying out the design on the die member 32, a plurality of grooves 55 corresponding in size and shape to the box links 20 are formed therein, the grooves 55 being positioned between the opposed grooves 48 in the necklace design and between the opposed grooves 50 in the bracelet design. As such, the grooves 55 are adapted to receive the box links 20 therein, the openings 30 in the box links 20 communicating with opposed design grooves 48 in the necklace construction 10 and the opposed grooves 50 in the bracelet construction.

The lower die member 34 is constructed similarly to the upper die member 32 and is formed with a recess 56 that communicates with radial runners 57, 58 and 60 that are adapted to be aligned with runners 38, 40 and 42, respectively. Similarly, a main semicircular runner 62 is aligned with the main runner 44, while runners 64 are adapted to be aligned with runners 46 and cooperate therewith to direct the casting material into design grooves 66. The design grooves 66 cooperate with the design grooves 48 to form the complete design detail that is cast onto the box links 20. Grooves 68 are also formed in the die 34 between the opposed design grooves 66 and cooperate with the grooves 55 to receive the box links 20 therein. The die 32 is also formed with a main runner 79 that is adapted to be aligned with runner 54 and runners 72 that are adapted to be aligned with runners 52. Design grooves 74 communicate with the runners 72 for receiving casting material therefrom while box grooves 68 are formed between the opposed grooves 74 and are aligned with similarly formed grooves 55. It is understood that when the upper and lower die sections 32, 34 are placed in engaging relation as seen in FIG. 3, the aligned runners and design grooves cooperate to form channels through which the casting material runs, while the opposed design grooves communicate by means of the openings 33 formed in the box links, the box links being positioned in the grooves 55 and 68 provided therefor.

In casting the complete necklace and bracelet constructions, the strands of box links 20 which have been deformed to form the openings 30 therein are placed in the lower die member 34 such that the box links 20 are positioned in the grooves 68 provided therefor. With the box links located in the grooves 68 in the bottom die member 34, the openings 30 formed therein communicate with the opposed design grooves 66. When the upper die member 32 is brought into engaging relation with the lower die member 34 and locked thereon as illustrated in FIG. 3, the grooves 55 engage the box links 20 and cooperate with the grooves 68 to retain the box links in firm relation, the openings 36 therein communicating with the opposed design grooves 66 in the lower die member 34 and with the opposed design grooves 43 in the upper die member 32. Casting material is then introduced into the die through the opening 36. As the die is rotated, the casting material is directed through the runners by centrifugal force into the aligned design grooves 48 and 66. Since the openings 30 in the box links communicate with the aligned design grooves 48 and 65, the casting material will flow through the openings and will fill the design grooves 48 and 66. Since the open ing 36) in each box link 20 is filled with the casting material, the casting material Will fuse in integral relation with the box links 20. Because the side walls 29, 31 of the openings 3d are shaped or deformed in such a manner as to seal the openings 30 from the interior portions of the box links, the casting material is prevented from entering into the interior portions and therefore cannot contact the connecting elements 22. Thus the connecting elements will not be fused or frozen by the casting material to the box links and will be free for pivotal movement to provide for the flexible or encircling movement of the finished necklace or bracelet construction.

The process is completed by withdrawing the necklace and bracelet from the die, this step being accomplished by breaking the casting material at the point of contact between the runners 46, 52, 64 and 72 with their respective grooves. The bracelet and necklace are then finished by plating in the conventional manner.

Although a rope type of design is illustrated as being formed integrally with the box links 20 in the present invention, it is understood that any design detail, as desired, may be preformed in the die members 32 and 34. It is also understood that although the box links 2%) are shown formed in a particular configuration, the shape or configuration thereof may also be varied in accordance with the design required. It is important in the construction of the jewelry article embodied herein that the connecting elements 22 which join the box links 20 in interengaging and end-to-end relation have freedom of movement. This freedom of movement provides for the en circling of the necklace or bracelet around the neck or wrist of the wearer. Thus, in the formation of the box links 26, an opening such as indicated by the opening 39 is necessary so that the casting material will be prevented from entering into the interior of the box links and into engagement with the connecting elements 22. The connecting element is thus prevented from being fused to the box link 20.

The jewelry article formed by the process described herein has a unique construction in that various types of designs may be produced in a relatively simple and inexpensive manner. Since the strand M of box links 29 is free for movement, the necklace or bracelet formed will always have relative flexibility and may be used as an encircling ornament. As contrasted with the necklaces or bracelets known heretofore, the individual elements of the bracelet or necklace herein do not have to be manually connected since the links 20 are connected by automatic machinery and are deformed to form the openings 30 in the manner described above by automatic machinery. In contrast to procedures known heretofore, the centrifugal casting operation completely forms the necklace or bracelet in a single casting operation, and, because of the simplicity of the operation, the relative cost of the jewelry item is comparatively low.

While there is shown and described herein certain specific structure embodying the invention, it will be manifest to those skilled in the art that various modifications and rearrangements of the parts may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the underlying inventive concept and that the same is not limited to the particular forms herein shown and described except insofar as indicated by the scope of the appended claims.

What is claimed is:

1. In an article of jewelry, a plurality of links, each of said links being formed in an integral onepiece construction in a hollow box-like configuration and including opposed end walls, opposed side walls, a bottom wall and a top wall, an opening extending through the opposed side walls of each link and defining spaced interior cavities, the walls forming each of said cavities including a wall of said opening, a portion of said opposed side walls, and end wall and a portion of said top and bottom walls, the walls of said openings being formed by link portions, one edge of which is free and that abuts an adjoining edge of a free link portion, a plurality of con necting members for interconnecting said links in end-toend pivotal relation, the opposed ends of each of said connecting members projecting in a cavity in a link through the end wall thereof and maintained in loose fitting relation therein, each of the ends of a connecting member being sealed from the opening in a link by the walls of said opening, and a decorative element extending through the opening in each link and projecting substantially beyond the outer surfaces of the opposed side walls through which the opening extends, the decorative elements being fixed in the openings in said links and being sealed from the cavities therein whereby said connecting members are maintained in loose fitting relation in their respective cavities.

2. In an article of jewelry, a plurality of links, each of which is formed in an integral one-piece construction and in a hollow box-like configuration, each of said links including opposed end walls, a bottom wall, a top wall and opposed side walls through which an opening extends, the opening in each link extending in a generally transverse direction and separating the interior thereof into spaced cavities, the ends of which are defined by said end walls and a Wall of said opening, wherein said opening in each link is sealed from the cavities therein, a plurality of connecting members, for connecting said links in end-to-end relation and extending into said cavities for securernent therein in loose fitting relation, and a decorative element extending through the opening in each link and projecting substantially beyond the outer surfaces of the opposed side walls, the decorative elements being fixed in the openings in said links and being sealed from the cavities therein, wherein said connecting members are maintained in loose fitting relation in their respective cavities.

3. In an article of manufacture, a plurality of links, each of which is formed in a hollow box-like configuration, each of said links including opposed end walls and opposed side walls through which an opening extends, the opening in each link extending in a generally transverse direction and separating the interior thereof into spaced cavities, the ends of each cavity being defined by one of said end walls and a wall of said opening, a plurality of connecting members for interconnecting said links, the end of each connecting member extending into a cavity in a link and secured therein in loose fitting relalation, and a decorative element extending through the opening in each link and projecting substantially beyond the outer surfaces of said opposed side walls, the decorative elements being fixed in the openings in said links and being sealed from the cavities therein, wherein said connecting members are maintained in loose fitting relation in their respective cavities.

4. In an article of jewelry, a plurality of links, each of said links being formed in an integral one-piece construction in a hollow box-like configuration and including at least opposed end walls and opposed side walls, said 0 links being pivotally interconnected in end-to-end rela- References Cited in the file of this patent tion by connecting members that extend through the end UNITED STATES PATENTS walls of ad acent links, a transverse opening formed 1n each of said links and extending through the opposed 13271925 Schnelder 131 1920 side Walls thereof, a decorative element extending through 5 1,714,768 e m May 1929 the transverse opening in each of said links and projecting 1,735,384 Fleldlng 12, 1929 substantially beyond the outer surfaces of the opposed side 2,263,340 Kfaemel 1941 Walls through which the transverse opening extends, the 9 ,59 R SS Oct. 13, 1942 decorative element located in the transverse opening in 2,674,842 Hess Apr. 13, 1954 each link being sealed from said connecting members, 10 2,712,173 Denner July 5, 1955 wherein the pivotal movement of said links is maintained. 2,902,749 Manne Sept. 8, 1959 

1. IN AN ARTICLE OF JEWELRY, A PLURALITY OF LINKS, EACH OF SAID LINKS BEING FORMED IN AN INTEGRAL ONE-PIECE CONSTRUCTION IN A HOLLOW BOX-LIKE CONFIGURATION AND INCLUDING OPPOSED END WALLS, OPPOSED SIDE WALLS, A BOTTOM WALL AND A TOP WALL, AN OPENING EXTENDING THROUGH THE OPPOSED SIDE WALLS OF EACH LINK AND DEFINING SPACED INTERIOR CAVITIES, THE WALLS FORMING EACH OF SAID CAVITIES INCLUDING A WALL OF SAID OPENING, A PORTION OF SAID OPPOSED SIDE WALLS, AND END WALL AND A PORTION OF SAID TOP AND BOTTOM WALLS, THE WALLS OF SAID OPENINGS BEING FORMED BY LINK PORTIONS, ONE EDGE OF WHICH IS FREE AND THAT ABUTS AN ADJOINING EDGE OF A FREE LINK PORTION, A PLURALITY OF CONNECTING MEMBERS FOR INTERCONNECTING SAID LINKS IN END-TOEND PIVOTAL RELATION, THE OPPOSED ENDS OF EACH OF SAID CONNECTING MEMBERS PROJECTING IN A CAVITY IN A LINK THROUGH THE END WALL THEREOF AND MAINTAINED IN LOOSE FITTING RELATION THEREIN, EACH OF THE ENDS OF A CONNECTING MEMBER BEING SEALED FROM THE OPENING IN A LINK BY THE WALLS OF SAID OPENING, AND A DECORATIVE ELEMENT EXTENDING THROUGH THE OPENING IN EACH LINK AND PROJECTING SUBSTANTIALLY BEYOND THE OUTER SURFACES OF THE OPPOSED SIDE WALLS THROUGH WHICH THE OPENING EXTENDS, THE DECORATIVE ELEMENTS BEING FIXED IN THE OPENINGS IN SAID LINKS AND BEING SEALED FROM THE CAVITIES THEREIN WHEREBY SAID CONNECTING MEMBERS ARE MAINTAINED IN LOOSE FITTING RELATION IN THEIR RESPECTIVE CAVITIES. 